Fashion Month arrived once again, bringing with it a whirlwind of runway shows and parties and as the curtains fall on yet another exhilarating edition of Fashion Week, The runways have spoken, designers have cast their sartorial spells, and the fashion world has been captivated once again.
With a whirlwind of breathtaking collections, avant-garde creations, and the pulse of the industry echoing in every garment, this season has proven to be nothing short of a stylish.
Join us on a journey through the highlights, trends, and captivating moments that have left an indelible mark on the landscape of fashion at Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2024.
New York Fashion Week
As the first stop on the international circuit, NYFW kicked off fashion month in style. From star-studded after parties to front-row appearances by our favorite celebrities, the event was filled with entertainment and excitement. One notable aspect of NYFW Spring 2024 was the presence of numerous celebrities in the front row. With the SAG-AFTRA strike giving them a more open schedule, Hollywood stars flocked to New York to support both established and emerging designers. NYFW also saw the return of legacy names such as Ralph Lauren, making a comeback to the New York calendar after a two-year absence.
One of the most highly anticipated moments of NYFW was Peter Do's debut collection for Helmut Lang. As the creative director for the fashion house, Do presented a line of 47 referential silhouettes inspired by New York City's bustling lifestyle and Lang's minimalist designs from the 90s. While some showgoers appreciated the collection's message, others found it underwhelming. Some critics had mixed reviews, with some calling it "uncool" and "Lang Lite." Nonetheless, Do's talent is undeniable, and we can expect even greater things from him in the future.
Image Source: Helmut Lang
In terms of trends, NYFW Spring 2024 didn't bring anything groundbreaking to the table. However, two standout themes emerged: cool bridalwear and kidcore. Brands like Wiederhoeft and Altuzarra reimagined modern bridal concepts, allowing individuals to inject their personality and style into their wedding day looks. On the other hand, the inner child within us was delighted with the abundance of youthful motifs on the runway. Sandy Liang's signature style, complete with frills, rosettes, and bows, was prevalent, while accessories reminiscent of childhood playpens, such as Polly Pocket-inspired handbags and Lisa Frank's vibrant colors, took center stage.
London Fashion Week
London Fashion Week brought its fair share of drama, including Burberry's takeover of the Bond Street tube station. Changing platform signs to read "Burberry Street" baffled tourists and foreigners, who missed their stops amidst the confusion. Burberry's second show by designer Daniel Lee showcased strong branding with prints featuring chains, locks, and carabiners. The standout moments included the dominance of the color red in collections by 16Arlington, Chet Lo, JW Anderson, and Supriya Lele. Simone Rocha's platform Crocs encrusted with crystals and pearls stole the show in the accessory department, while Labrum partnered with Adidas to create Samba sneakers and rubber clogs printed with Nomoli figurines.
Richard Quinn, known for his dramatic and sophisticated designs, unveiled his exquisitely crafted SS24 collection amid banks of fresh flowers. Accompanied by a live men's choir, the show paid homage to House codes with draped floral gowns and crinoline skirts. Quinn opted for a softer and more ethereal approach this season, moving away from his previous S&M-inspired styling. Anderson's SS24 collection experimented with unconventional materials like clay and plastic. The show opened with moulded-clay cropped tees and folded denim shorts, blurring the lines between sculpture and garment. Balloon-like padded plastic ensembles followed, creating a striking visual contrast.
Image Source: Getty Images
London Fashion Week SS24 delivered an array of captivating shows and collections, showcasing the innovation and talent that defines the fashion industry. From the expert craftsmanship of Molly Goddard to the unconventional materials used by JW Anderson, each designer brought their unique vision to life on the runway.
Milan Fashion Week
Milan Fashion Week was a whirlwind of creativity and excitement, despite the unpredictable weather. Just like in London, torrential rain interrupted many of the presentations, even causing a venue change for the highly anticipated Gucci show.
Gucci's show in Milan marked a new chapter for the brand. Under the leadership of Sabato De Sarno, the relatively unknown designer, Gucci presented a collection that was a departure from the overblown muchness of Alessandro Michele. It was a cleansing! a breeze of change that embraced minimalism and simplicity. He delivered a collection that was highly well-received, showcasing his creative vision and breathing new life into the iconic brand. Another standout debut was Tom Ford's first show in Milan under the creative direction of Peter Hawkings. The collection paid homage to Ford's greatest hits while adding a demure touch.
One interesting trend that emerged from Milan Fashion Week was the return to the past. Several brands looked to their archives for inspiration, creating collections that paid homage to iconic designs from previous decades. From Fendi to Prada, Versace to Tom Ford, designers drew inspiration from past collections, infusing them with a modern twist.
Image Source: Gucci
Short shorts dominated the runways, Ferragamo and Jil Sander pushed the boundaries of their brands with innovative silhouettes and fabrics. Bottega Veneta showcased pieces that were plain old weird but eye-poppingly good, while Diesel's collection had a chaotic, end-of-the-world energy. While most brands embraced elegance and sophistication, Diesel went in a completely different direction. True to its rebellious nature, Diesel presented a larger-than-life collection of distressed garments made from recycled denim and vintage posters. The post-modern punk vibes and rave setting created the wildest presentation of the season.
Fendi's runway show in Milan was a standout moment for the brand. Under the artistic direction of Kim Jones, Fendi showcased clothes that outshone their iconic bags. Grown-up and streamlined, the collection exuded confidence and sophistication.The overall theme of Milan Fashion Week was impeccable elegance. From Prada to Ferragamo, Fendi to Bottega Veneta, the collections exuded crisp femininity and showcased the main aesthetic of the season, featuring knits, short shorts, red leather, and well-tailored jackets.
Paris Fashion Week
Designers at Paris Fashion Week drew heavily from past trends and iconic designs, infusing them with their unique creative visions. Maria Grazia Chiuri, the creative director of Dior, reimagined a 1948 archival design by Christian Dior, paying homage to the brand's rich history. While incorporating Parisian icons like the Eiffel Tower and old city maps, Chiuri presented a collection dominated by Victorian-inspired dresses, adding a touch of romance to the runway.
Saint Laurent, under the direction of Anthony Vaccarello, followed a similar path, albeit with a contemporary twist. The brand's collection mostly featured jumpsuits, beautifully crafted and styled to perfection. And at Balenciaga, Demna Gvasalia diverged from his previous dystopian themes, focusing instead on the craftsmanship and elegance of the clothes. Gvasalia's return after a tumultuous period was marked by a more grunge-inspired Balenciaga, reflecting his bottom-up approach to luxury.
Balmain showcased clothes adorned with red-patent-leather roses, while Marni mixed stripes and plaids in unexpected ways. Rabanne presented metallic dresses dripping in chain mail, and Schiaparelli showcased a little black dress with a large gold-painted ceramic lobster at the neck. However, it was Rick Owens who stole the show with his monumental and minimalist approach. His leather dresses resembled little mountains of meringue, and oversized jumpsuits with silk capes created a striking visual impact.
Image Source: Balmian
Daniel Roseberry, the creative director of Schiaparelli, paid tribute to the brand's iconic founder, Elsa Schiaparelli. His ready-to-wear collection for Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2024 captured Schiaparelli's spirit of creating garments that are both wearable and extraordinary. Roseberry aimed to evoke sensations and inspire awe with every piece, drawing from the brand's couture heritage. Alexander McQueen's show became an emotional farewell for Sarah Burton, as she bid adieu to the brand she had dedicated herself to.
Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2024 served as a reflection of the industry's current state, showcasing the tension between the allure of the past and the need for novelty. While some designers celebrated tradition and heritage, others dared to push boundaries and explore uncharted territories. As the fashion world evolves, only time will tell which path will prevail.