SS19 promises to be entertaining. The kaleidoscopic, futuristic and avant-garde are freed from social limitation whilst summer fashion trends mirror the street. Far beyond chic and clean statements, designers have brought male fashion back to where it actually belongs : IN THE STREET.
From London to New York and from Paris to Milan, we took the pulse of the hottest trends as seen on the runways directly from the streets.
Colours were worn in fluorescence as a loud statement to affirm oneself beyond conservative limitations. Trench coats, leather, oversized jackets as seen in Louis Vuitton collection were a call to take a leap into a future fantasized, dared and driven by Virgil Abloh.
SS19 Male closets tend to be informal and more casual than chic. Louis Vuitton made a Millenial statement with a collection fully infused with street wear. The brand revisited the monogram in many leathers, white, brown and fluorescent tones in rupture with the brand traditions. Looks were less aristocratic for the sake of being more relaxed. Once again, Virgil Abloh made a collection which stood out as more functional and less aspirational.
Even male suits turned down the jacket for the occasion to walk Rick Owens streets. Beyond the disciplined lines of the present, the designer explored futuristic spheres with a sense of symmetry.
Saint Laurent stretched the limits of its iconic suits to balance aristocratic elegance with a Millenial touch. Stripped again in a Black tuxedo frame, Saint Laurent men remained 'dans l'air du temps' with underlining rails of sand which enhanced juvenile silhouettes and called a whole generation of males to walk on their own lines.
The sporty touch invaded male closets as seen on Valentino runways. Prints were spreading all over and mixed in avant-garde looks to voice underlying statements.
Martin Margiela took on the runway with surrealistic looks. Camisoled or chest free, the choice is yours ! Models stepped in the fantasy with vinyl pork-feet leather officer moccasins to bridge humanity with its own nature. Conservative borders of fashion have officially been shaken but not stirred as emancipation becomes the rule. Borders of genders, styles and ages were blurred in fabrics, lines & colours in whispered statements that found their way into the runways turned into open roads to freedom. John Galliano struck again in revisiting the bondage theme. He pushed it further by wrapping male torsos in layers of sheer tulle, and in highlighting suit jackets with nude corsets.
Oversized granddad shirts, wide legged pleated trousers and sundowners summer palette (burgundy, burnt Sienna, ochre) took on the show with Prada's signature looks.
It is time for fantasy with Moschino which explored with humorous wonder walls. In the golden ages of influence Magic is key! Glossy glittered strippes became exotic before turning magical while charism reigned as an invisible MUST HAVE.
SS19 is a time for navy, lightness, floating fabrics, pannelled hoodies and offtrack pants as seen in Balmain runways.
Men were turned into urban mercenaries as seen in Dior, Hermes, Jacquemus and Comme des Garcons shows. Geopolitical concerns or social calls to action ? The fashion 'parti-pris' remains in your hands!
SS19 is also time to go over board with trench coats flirting with Matrix vibes. Time lines were destructured, layered and oversized as showcased by Yoghi Yamamoto.
Modern ninjas invaded the stages and wore Versace and Raf Simons. Transparency fit the super super heroes, those who make newspapers headlines and face the camera with glamourous chilled looks in time of chaos.
Mercenary, fantasists or urban dandies? The choice is yours as SS19 is an open window of choices driven by actions. A wind of change is blowing under summer trench coats with a glossy pinch of glitter as hope is on its way !
Once again, male fashion trends walk us further down the road in a world of options which leaves room for individuality.
JOURNAL
